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Author
Dworieckaja Tatiana (Warsaw Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care)
Title
Choosing an Emollient: Focus on Plant Oils Constituents and Key Aspects of Their Influence on Skin Barrier
Rola emolientów w barierze naskórkowej: wielokierunkowe działanie składników olejów roślinnych
Source
Towaroznawcze Problemy Jakości, 2019, nr 3, s. 46-60, tab., bibliogr. 67 poz.
Polish Journal of Commodity Science
Keyword
Towaroznawstwo przemysłowe, Kosmetyki, Badania towaroznawcze
Industrial commodities, Cosmetics, Commodity research
Note
summ., streszcz.
Abstract
Działanie nawilżające jest podstawowym oczekiwaniem oraz kryterium konsumentów w zakresie wyboru preparatu do pielęgnacji skóry. Emolienty są powszechnie stosowaną grupą substancji o charakterze lipidowym odpowiedzialnych za spełnienie danego kryterium. Emolienty różnią się budową chemiczną, a co za tym idzie właściwościami fizycznymi. Dzięki temu mogą wywierać złożony wpływ na barierę naskórkową. Oleje roślinne jako mieszaniny zawierają wiele cennych składników lipidowych o charakterze emolientów, w związku z tym mogą wywierać wielokierunkowy wpływ na barierę. Dobór odpowiedniej pielęgnacji przez konsumenta najczęściej odbywa się metodą prób i błędów. Przegląd składników olejów roślinnych ze szczególnym uwzględnieniem ich możliwego wpływu na barierę naskórkową pomoże w rozumieniu mechanizmów działania oraz w racjonalnym wyborze tych naturalnych surowców. (abstrakt oryginalny)

Nowadays moisturization is the most common claim and basic consumer expectation of a cosmetic product. A wide range of various emollients are used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products such as petroleum-derived hydrocarbons, synthetic or naturallyderived fatty acids, alcohols and esters, lanolin, sphingolipids, sterols and variety is increasing. Large differences exist in the chemical and physical properties of emollients, which are related to their variant functionality and effect on skin barrier function. Plant oils being the complex mixture comprise many of the above-mentioned emollients, thus may exert a complex effect on skin barrier and hydration. Processing a formulation by manufacturer from one side and finding the most suitable product by consumer from another is usually a matter of trial and error. The review of plant oils components with the special focus on their possible effects (positive and negative) on skin barrier could enable rational choice of these raw materials for specific application. (original abstract)
Accessibility
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Bibliography
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ISSN
1733-747X
Language
eng
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